A Winter Weekend in Whitby

The harbour town of Whitby sitting on the North Yorkshire Coast, has long been a popular holiday destination for Summer tours, but you may be surprised just how much it has to offer in low season! Sarah, our Sales and Marketing Executive, enjoyed a weekend break at the Royal Hotel Whitby this January and shares some of the highlights of her trip. . . .

Based in Darlington, Whitby can be easily reached on a day trip, but it was good to play ‘tourist’ for the weekend, meeting up with a group of people from across the UK. Leaving after work on a Friday, I headed across the snow-covered North York Moors to a warm welcome at the Royal Hotel. There was just enough time to check in and change into some thermal layers, before meeting the rest of the group under the Whale Bones Arch for Dr Crank's Ghost Walk around the West Cliff area of the town.

There were plenty of steps, cobbled alleyways, and icy slopes to navigate but in a group of mixed mobility, we all made it around safely. We didn’t spot any shadowy figures, but it proved a fun introduction to some of the history of the town. I discovered Bram Stoker also enjoyed a stay at The Royal whilst writing his famous ‘Dracula’ novel whilst Lewis Caroll took some inspiration for ‘Alice Through the Looking Glass’ from his visits to Whitby.

After our walk, we headed back to the harbour to warm up with some dancing at The Abbey Wharf. This was surprisingly lively for a snowy weekend in mid-January with a mix of both locals and visitors enjoying the atmosphere.

Saturday morning dawned fine but breezy and gave me my first glimpse of the stunning views from my room over the Whale Bone Arch, the Captain Cook statue, the quaint cottages surrounding the harbour, and Whitby Abbey in the distance on the East Cliff. With its corner plot high on the West Cliff, many of the rooms of The Royal boast spectacular sea and harbour views. After a buffet breakfast (with very helpful staff), it was time for some fresh air. We headed down to the harbour, crossing over the River Esk, to start the climb to the abbey.

The 199 steps (or stairs as they are referred to by locals) sound daunting, but with several level breaks with seats to enjoy the view, we made it to the top without the need for medical assistance! At the top, you can explore St Mary’s Church and graveyard, mentioned in the novel, Dracula, and weather-permitting, visit Whitby Abbey Museum and ruins. Sadly, high winds meant the ruins were closed to visitors that day, but refreshments could be found in the YHA café or Whitby Brewery. We pulled up a chair in the bustling brewery bar, overlooking the abbey, where friendly locals and visitors alike were happy to chat about their top tips for other places to visit in the town. (Brewery tours run here too if you’re visiting later in the year!)

After our break here, we headed back down an alternative route – the ‘Donkey Path’ - to explore the lovely independent shops dotted around the harbour. You’ll find plenty of opportunities here to buy one of the most famous souvenirs of the area – Whitby Jet - formed from fossilised Monkey Puzzle tree. You should also look out for the Whitby Heritage Sculpture Trail – 9 life-size sculptures by local artist, Emma Stothard representing the history and heritage of the harbour town.

Back in the harbour, you’ll find another hidden gem – a replica of Captain Cook’s Endeavour. It’s a great photo opportunity from the outside, but don’t miss climbing on board. The inside has partially been adapted to serve food and drink but it’s also a ‘mini museum’ telling the story of life on board during Captain Cook’s voyages of discovery.

No visit to Whitby is complete without a fish and chip supper. There’s plenty of options around the harbour. One of my favourites is Angel Fisheries where the blackboard inside tells you which boat supplied the fish that morning. As there were over 20 of us, we’d pre-booked a table at the famous Magpie Café for our evening meal. One of the advantages of a winter visit is avoiding the queues you’ll see here in the summer! Again, on Saturday evening, the town was livelier than you may expect in January with several bars offering free live music and a holiday atmosphere.

Waking up on Sunday to sunshine, I was in no rush to leave, so I headed away from the harbour this morning, walking along the promenade that runs along the coast towards Sandsend. More storms were forecast for the afternoon, but while there was a lull in the wind, The Abbey Visitor Centre was showing open for the morning, so I finally got a chance to explore the ruins. This time I drove up, so this is an option if you can’t manage the steps! With a museum as well as the ruins to explore, it was another fascinating insight into the history of Whitby stretching way back before its mention in the Dracula novel!

Thank you to the Royal Hotel, part of the Coast and Country Group, for their hospitality and my beautiful twin executive room, complete with a coffee machine and complimentary bottle of water. There is a varying standard of rooms at the hotel, with some more recently refurbished than others. Some of the public areas could perhaps do with a little love and attention, but it is essentially an historic building with the character that comes with it.

There is a lift – but only big enough for two – so request a low floor if you don’t like stairs. There are some bathrooms with shower cubicles rather than a shower over bath but these can’t be guaranteed ahead of the rooming list and it’s worth bearing in mind there are steps throughout the hotel which may be an issue for guests with mobility issues. Although navigating the town itself does require some level of fitness!

The main feedback I got from other friends staying at the hotel was, although their rooms were more basic than mine, they were very clean with all the facilities they needed for a short break and the staff were friendly and helpful. And they loved their sea views from this stunning location!

Overall, the weekend was a very refreshing break to help beat those Winter blues! Although it wasn’t the weather for building sandcastles on the beach, and several of the town's attractions or shops were closed until March, there was still plenty to see and do. In fact, if your summer trip to Whitby includes ‘free time to explore’ you may find it hard to fit in everything. But then it’s always good to leave a reason for a return visit!